I travel to China several times a year mainly for fun but also to check out hotels and new tourist attractions for my book.
The following information is not in my 2006 book. 

The following items are dated with the month the information was obtained. Everything is subject to change but this should give you a good idea of what to expect. Please also look at our collection of photos from some of these places.

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The last time this page was updated was 12/31/08

Yangtze Gorges: (page 697-713)
2007 tours on the Yangtze Gorges and winter specials for 2007/2008 have been announced. The four or five day Chongqing-Yichang cruise leaves six times a week. Prices start at US$675 per person, based on double occupancy in a standard cabin during the shoulder season (March 16-31, June, July, August and November) and $720 per person, double, in peak season (April, May, September and October). Rates in junior suites, deluxe suites and Shangri-La suites are available. Shore excursions cost an additional $80 per person.

Victoria Cruises also does an eight-day Chongqing-Yichang-Chongqing, a seven-day Chongqing-Shanghai, and a nine day Shanghai-Chongqing programs. The Shanghai-Chongqing cruises will include stops at the Three Gorges Dam, Mt. Huangshan ("Yellow Mountain"), and Nanjing.

Its newest ship the Victoria Anna with 153 cabins came onto the river on April 25, 2006 bringing Victoria's fleet to a total of seven. Every ship is improving its menu with the help of chef Walter Staib. The Victoria Anna has a group dining room and an a la carte dining room.

For more information and a free color brochure or copy of the expanded DVD, contact Victoria Cruises at 57-08 39th Avenue, Woodside, NY 11377; phone (800) 348-8084, (212) 818-1680; fax (212) 818-9889. Send e-mails to contact@victoriacruises.com  or visit the company in cyberspace at www.victoriacruises.com .

I haven’t traveled with Victoria Cruises myself for several years so can’t recommend it or not but it has been one of the better lines on the Yangtze.
– RLM, November, 2006.


Lesley Yu of Orient Royal Cruises (ORC) that operates the East King and East Queen, wrote in answer to my questions: 

"ORC will run between Chongqing and Yichang for the whole of 2003, upstream departing Yichang (or Maoping before Jun. 15) every Thursday (East King) and Sunday (East Queen). Downstream it will be departing Chongqing every Sunday (East King) and Thursday (East Queen). Both upstream and downstream will offer a four-day and three night cruise with shore excursions to Three Gorges Project (TGP), Shennong Stream and Shibaozhai. For the year 2003, we will operate 72 upstream and 72 downstream sailings between Yichang and Chongqing.

"From now to the end of March, 2003, the temporary ship lock will still be operating and ships can sail through it; however, because of its limited capacity, all cruise ships will simply dock above the dam at Maoping. 

"From April to June 15, the temporary ship lock will be blocked and no ships can pass through. They can only dock above the TGP at Maoping.

"After June. 15, the five-stage ship lock will be put into operation and all the ships can pass through the ship lock. 

"A visit to the TGP can be arranged all year round (including before June 15). The recommended itinerary is as follows: Yichang Airport to TGP 1.5 hours (taxi Y200); TGP tour two hours; TGP to Maoping: 0.5 hour (taxi Y150). 

"The price for the shuttle bus from Maoping to Yichang city: Y16 p.p. (1.5 hours). A direct shuttle bus from Maoping to the Yichang Airport is not available. Guests might take the shuttle bus out from Maoping and then a taxi from Yichang to Yichang Airport at Y70 a car. 

"You may notice from the above timing that no overnight in Yichang is necessary in order to catch a flight out of Yichang.

"For passengers of our ships, we will provide a complimentary transfer service between Maoping and Yichang. 

"The year 2003 is regarded as a year of transition and ORC is quite cautious. We want to provide a consistent product for our clients. We will offer similar products and services as per the previous year. If there is any new plan for year 2004, I will keep you updated."

Ms. Yu's e-mail is: orcruise@public.wh.hb.cn  . The addresses in Wuhan for Orient Royal Cruises have not changed (page 718). The telephone numbers for its office in Chongqing have now changed to: Tel: 86-23-6382-2702. Fax: 86-23-6382-2701. Contact: Ms. May Han. -RLM, DATE: February, 2003. 

* * *
Victoria Cruises ships do include a shore excursion to the Three Gorges Dam site Its itineraries are as follows:

Chongqing/Wuhan* 4days/3nights - daily sailings mid-March through November
*Wuhan/Chongqing-6days/5 nights - daily sailings mid-March through November
Chongqing/Nanjing-8days/7nights - weekly sailings mid-March through November
Nanjing/Chongqing-9days/8nights- weekly sailings mid-March through November
Wuhan/Nanjing-5days/4 nights - weekly sailings mid-March through November
Nanjing/Wuhan-4 days/3 nights - weekly sailings mid-March through November
Chongqing/Yichang-4 days/3 nights-winter program-weekly sailings December-mid-March
Yichang/Chongqing-5 days/4 nights-winter program-weekly sailings December-mid-March

*Please note that through mid-June, we will depart/arrive at Maoping instead of Wuhan for cruises indicated, due to the construction of the Three Gorges Dam. A motorcoach transfer will be provided (about 5.5 hours) between these places. Through mid-June, the 3rd night of the downstream cruise is spent at the Holiday Inn in Wuhan, and the 5th night of the upstream cruise is spent at the Holiday Inn in Chongqing.

 Shore excursions are as follows:
Chongqing/Wuhan - Fengdu or Wanxian, Daning River or Shennong Stream, evening show at Zigui, Three Gorges Dam site

Wuhan/Chongqing - Yueyang, Three Gorges Dam site, Daning River or Shennong Stream, Fengdu or Wanxian

Chongqing/Nanjing - All of the above for Chongqing/Wuhan plus Wuhan city tour, Jiujiang city tour, Mt. JiuHuaShan, plus optional tours are available between Wuhan and Nanjing

Nanjing/Chongqing - All of the above for Wuhan/Chongqing plus Mt.JiuHuaShan, Jiujiang city tour, Wuhan city tour, plus optional tours are available between Nanjing and Chongqing

Wuhan/Nanjing and Nanjing/Wuhan - see above

Chongqing/Yichang winter program - Wanxian or White Emperor City, Daning River or Shennong Stream, Three Gorges Dam site

Yichang/Chongqing - Three Gorges Dam site, Daning River or Shennong Stream, Wanxian or White Emperor City

We are introducing some new or upgraded ships in 2003 and 2004 called our Premier Series--in 2003 they include the Victoria Empress, Victoria Queen, Victoria Star and Victoria Prince, and in 2004 the new Victoria Katarina, Victoria Jenna and Victoria Emperor.

Cabins on these ships will have private balconies (cabins on Prince will have balconies in 2004, after it is structurally rebuilt in late 2003). These ships are larger than our other ships, which comprise our Classic Series (Victoria I, II, III, V, VII and Victoria Rose).-- Larry Greenman Manager, Public Relations and Customer Service, Victoria Cruises. DATE, February, 2003. 

* * *
One of the best sources I've found to help fit a cruise date into a China itinerary is: http://www.chinahighlights.com/yangtzecruise/search.php  . This is the web-site of CITS Guilin and if you punch in a date, it should tell you all the ships that are embarking that day, to and from where. Paul Yin is now in charge of that web-site. In answer to my questions, he writes: "The latest information is that some ships (e.g. East King and East Queen) are accepting bookings in June. I have put a little note (in red) at: http://www.chinahighlights.com/yangtzecruise/faq/flooding.htm  . 
"Only the Victorias are providing cruises between Chongqing and Nanjing (used to be Shanghai). Please find the trip information at: http://www.victoriacruises.com  and http://www.victoriacruises.com/itin2003.htm  .

"Regal China Cruises are still operating, but the ownership has been changed to the Bank of China of Jiangsu Province. The sales team is almost the same.

"Chinahighlights.com  has received more bookings for the Yangtze in 2003 than last year. Unfortunately, we have had to reject a lot of bookings because there are no vacancies available for many cruises especially in high season September and October. 

"Actually there are two new five-star ships this year. One is King, sister ship of the Qianlong. The other is New Century 1, which will start operations in July. I believe the hardware of these ships will be as good as (or even better) than the East King and East Queen, but I don't think the service will be as good. Let 's wait and see."

The e-mail address of Guilin CITS, Sales and Marketing Department, is: service@chinahighlights.com . Paul's e-mail is: e-mail: paul2@chinahighlights.com  . -RLM, DATE: February, 2003.

* * *
Another source of information on sailings and ships is Yangtze Cruises, Inc . based in New York City. While I have used both the Orient Royal Cruises and the Guilin CITS, I know nothing about these people. But they do have a web-site which lists the cruises by dates and describes many of the ships. Says Chris Q. Li, its vice president, "We sell cruise cabins to tour operators, travel agents and individual travelers. We welcome business from anybody, not just tour operators." It's at 566 7th Ave, Suite 506, New York, NY 10018. Tel. (800) 779-2856, (212) 382-3725 and Fax (212) 382-3701. Email: info@YangtzeCruises.com  and Yctltd@aol.com  . Web-site: www.YangtzeCruises.com . -- RLM, DATE, February, 2003.
* * *
Ships: My husband and I took the East Queen upstream from Yichang-Maoping to Fuling (and then a bus to the People's Hotel in Chongqing. The bus was organized by the East Queen). We were able to get a taxi easily at the People's Hotel in Chongqing. 

This was his first and my twelfth or so Yangtze Gorges trip, my first this late in the season. We were struck by how bad the air pollution was all the way from Wuhan to Chongqing, even for the hundreds of miles on the Yangtze. I suspected it was the cold weather and people were burning coal - because I had never seen it so bad, but CITS in Chongqing said it was the cement factories. (see Chongqing)

Still, it wasn't as bad as Wuhan's or Chongqing's air. It was so dark that taking photos on 100 ASA film was a problem. Friends who took the Yangtze trip three weeks before in warmer weather didn't notice any smog then. Our temperature ranged from 9 to 15C. 

The ship sailed to Fuling because the water in Chongqing was not deep enough for our ship. After the Yangtze River rises sufficiently, all cruise ships will probably go all the way to Chongqing again. 
My husband was surprised by the amazing construction projects that were taking place in the area: the tunnels near Yichang going through the mountains, the high bridges and the new highways-all claiming to set some sort of world record. He suggested a tour for civil engineers - there was so much going on of gigantic proportions. 
I was fascinated by the destruction of Fengdu - all the buildings below the temple have been torn down now and people were going through the rubble to salvage what they could. It seems that the government doesn't want the ruins of buildings interfering with navigation after the flooding. 

I had been on a ORC ship once before. This time the service was still good and the cabins were fine. Although the staff was constantly polishing and cleaning, I could smell a bit of mold in the lobby - but only once. On-board telephone charges were now down to Y73 a minute plus 15%. The suggested tip is now US$20 for the three-night trip to be shared amongst the whole staff. The food was plentiful and good and on this trip it was mainly Cantonese because most of its passengers were from Hong Kong. There was a lot of variety. If we didn't like one thing, there was always something else that we did like. 

But I did have to ask for a flask with drinking water - an oversight not noticed in other cabins, and the exercise equipment was very old and not inviting. The library had hardly any books, not even on the Three Gorges and Yangtze. I did find staff asleep on couches in the lobby at 4am on several mornings. Yes, we could pay by credit card, but there was a 4% surcharge. Laundry prices are now Y25 for a shirt, Y8 for a handkerchief, and Y28 for trousers. RLM-DATE, December, 2002. 
* * * 

We learned on our cruise: 
-- that when the ship channel is closed off in 2003, the turbines will start to generate electricity. This in turn should pay for almost half the cost of the dam. 
-- that there are no fish locks, no place for fish to swim upstream. 
-- that an aquarium specializing in local fish should open in 2004. 
-- that the project to divert some Yangtze river water to Beijing is still being considered and might start in 2003 or so. 
-- that the highway from Shanghai to Chengdu should completely open in 2004. 
This would include the highway from Yichang to Chongqing, parts of which are already finished. 
-- that the mass of water held by the dam will be enough to change the rotation of the earth by one second a year. --RLM, DATE, April 2001. 


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Yantai
(See page 379) The expressway from Qingdao goes through flat countryside full of apple orchards, corn, leeks, carrots, flowers, grapes, and greenhouses. As you approach Yantai, you pass through low-lying mountains. Another expressway goes from Jinan to Yantai with buses taking 5.5 to 6 hours.

Where to Stay:
Yantai has adequate hotels but none with sparkling chrome and impeccable service. It has no really international quality hotel. The Pacific is central, and the Golden Gulf is at one end of the Bund with the best view. The Marina is at the other end of the Bund close to the exhibition center. Forget about the Yantai Asia. These are better. (See page 380)

The seven-story GOLDEN GULF (Jinhai Wan Dajiudian) Tel. 6224496, Fax 6216313 is aiming for five stars but is still a four and has a way to go. Standards don't look as good as the Pacific's in some areas, but it does have two executive floors. Rooms have safes, smoke masks, hair dryers, and two telephones. They are fine and the carpets were clean, but the fourth floor had a dirty hallway. Its gym had seven adequate but not great machines of which one was broken.

The Cheefoo Club, a part of the Golden Gulf Hotel, was the old British Consulate. It has torn and dirty carpets, musty smells, and old photos on its walls. It was first built in 1865 and was declared a cultural treasure in 1987 but it has not been adequately maintained. You can still bowl for Y2 in its old alley, but someone has to pick up the pins by hand for you. It is one of the few old imperialist buildings left on the Bund.

At the SHANDONG PACIFIC HOTEL, the sign outside near the roof says "Pacific Ocean Hotel" page 380. Web address: www.pacific-hotel.com   . The other addresses and numbers haven't changed and the Chinese name is Taiping Yang Dajiudian. This hotel is adjacent to a night market, and less than 100 meters from the Yantai Museum.

This 1999 four-star hotel was adequate. My 12th floor room had hot and cold drinking water, CNN, bath robes, and a clean carpet. However rust came out of the tap from time to time. The safe didn't inspire confidence; it was too complicated. The food in its second floor restaurant was delicious, the place clean, and the service good. Its ballroom can host a sit-down banquet for 400 people.

But the area around the swimming pool and the carpets on the lower floor needed cleaning and refurbishing. Its 25 meter indoor pool and other areas hopefully will be renovated in 2001.

The buffet breakfast costs Y36 and was good. The Chinese hotpot was Y30 at dinner or lunch. It had no serious literature in its business center, just movie magazines. We caught a half-dressed man with large tattoos necking with a fully-clothed young woman in the small gym. It appears that the health club is not controlled by the hotel, a bad situation for hotel security. The manager ignored the couple and said it was building a new gym with good equipment the end of the year.

The YANTAI MARINA HOTEL (Binhai Jia Ri Jiudian). Tel. 6669999, Fax 6669770. This hotel has a good location, especially if you have business in the Exhibition Center nearby. It is near No. 1 beach. The standard room seen had CNN, kettle, safe, dirty scales, and make-up mirror. We saw a carpet being shampooed. It had no periodicals in English, and its gym had eight antique exercise machines. The coffee shop offered sirloin steak for Y58, pork chops for Y38, curry chicken for Y28. The breakfast buffet was Y30.

Its Conference Hall seats 500 theatre-style or 300 banquet style.

Shopping: the main shopping streets are Nan Da Jie, Bei Da Xi and Shengli Road. A good department store is the Hualian Shang Sha. These are relatively near the Pacific Hotel.

Seeing the Sights: The last mirage at Penglai was seen on June 28, 2000 and lasted for two hours, said a guide.

The Yantai Museum hasn't changed. The entrance fee is now Y5 and it's open 8:30 to noon, and 1pm to about 5pm. It has 4000 year old grains of rice and paintings of the life of the Fujian goddess Mazu. The whale's jaw and stuffed sea turtle are falling apart. It has nine chime bells from the Western Zhou and tomb figures from the Ming.

There isn't much for the average tourist to see at the Zhangyu wine museum. But it's in town, and produces a 38 proof brandy as well as wines. It's better to spend your time in Penglai.

Where to Eat:
If you don't mind the noise, the Haoxianglai is across the road from the Pacific Hotel. It has western-type food, but no menu in English. It serves sizzlers for Y25.

Practical Information: CITS is still at 181 Jiefang Road, 264001. Its e-mail is: ytcits@public.ytptt.sd.cn  . It has 30 English-speaking guides. Ask for Li Yue Wen.

China Shandong Tourism Corp in Jinan's charges $60 a room for the Pacific, $75 for the Golden Gulf, and $50 for the Marina. Its fax number in Jinan is 6025290. Ask for John Ma (Ma Feng Jian), Deputy Manager, English Dept. The e-mail is: sdotcu@public.jn.sd.cn   .

Complaints: Tel. 6270842. - RLM, Date, November, 2000.

Yichang (page 732)
Lesley Yu of the East King and East Queen cruise ships says "From now until the end of March, 2003, the temporary ship lock is still in operation and ships can sail through it; however, due to its limited capacity, all cruise ships will simply dock above the dam at Maoping. 

"Between April and Jun. 15, the temporary ship lock will be blocked and no ships can pass through. They can only dock at Maoping. 

"After Jun. 15, the five-stage ship lock will be put into operation and all ships can pass through the ship lock. 

"Visits to the Three Gorges Project (TGP) can be arranged all year round. We recommend the following itinerary: Yichang Airport to Three Gorges Project 1.5 hours, TGP tour two hours, and TGP to Maoping: 0.5 hour. - DATE, February, 2003. 
* * *
We were booked on the East Queen. Lesley Yu of the Orient Royal Cruises (page 714) that owns this ship arranged a car for us (Y1200) from Wuhan. Travel agents or hotels in Wuhan might be able to get you a cheaper car. We drove from Wuhan to Yichang in about four hours on a superhighway. Near Yichang we went through five tunnels, a total of six kilometers through mountains. 

We paid Y100 for a guide from CITS Yichang whose English turned out to be poor. However, he did take us to Nanjin Pass (page 732) and the dam site, and we got inside to see the model just as it was closing for the day at 6pm. Unfortunately the project's guide had already left. The information office at the dam now has, surprise, a souvenir store.

CITS' Yichang branch's telephone is (717) 6220848, fax 6220973. E-mail: yct123@msn.com  . Near CITS is an even bigger souvenir store. 

Our car took us right to the East Queen at its pier in Maoping on the south side of the Yangtze above the dam. 

You can also get to Yichang from Wuhan by a bus from the Jielong Express Coach Company which charges Y115/pax for the four-hour trip. You need to take a taxi to the Taohualing Hotel (page 733). From there, Orient Cruises has a shuttle bus with Maoping. 

Please also see Wuhan, Yangtze Gorges and Chongqing. - RLM, DATE, December 2002. 

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